This was now my second attempt to get to Gabon. My first was scuppered by the coup in early September. At this point it’s good to note, that Brits could enter visa free. I left on my Central African travels on the 2nd October with all the visas I needed. By the 4th October, I now needed a visa for Gabon. But no worries, there was an evisa system that I could get my visa thru - no stress. I read up on EPS (a Facebook group called Every Passport Stamp)and it became apparent that the Gabon evisa system wasn’t exactly an easy thing to navigate. By some fortuitous event, a guy from EPS messaged me about a post I’d written on Georgetown, Guyana and at the same time asked me what countries I had left! I started with Gabon, he was checking with me I had my visa and explaining the long process he had gone thru and I sat gleefully telling him I didn’t need a visa. He asked “are you sure?”. I went onto the gov.uk website where I always check and sure enough “from the 4th of October 2023, British citizens now need a visa to enter Gabon”. WTF?!
Immediately I started to problem solve. I couldn’t get to an embassy, so I was going to have to rely on the evisa system I had heard so many bad things about and what made it worse? I was just about to travel to Chad, where I would have no signal for 6 days. I was going to have to keep my fingers crossed and hope.
Chad was amazing (separate blog) but khalas (Arabic word) no visa when I finally got signal again. No worries, I still had a day (although it was the weekend!). On Monday morning I went to the airport with my visa request in hand having been told “it’s Africa, just get on the plane!” - easier said than done when you’re not even allowed to the check in desk because you don’t have a visa. I called my guide - poor guy, it was just after 5am! “Help! I’m not allowed to check in!”. He rushed to immigration at the airport to ask for their help but they kept advising “she can get VOA (visa on arrival) at the airport, tell her to get on the plane”. I asked for this in writing, but no one would give it. Check in closed and I returned to the hotel in N’Djamena. What to do?!
I searched Gabonese embassies. There was one in London, Paris and in a number of African countries. Where did I have visas to? Cameroon (single entry), CAR (single entry), Ethiopia (single entry), Uganda (single entry). I couldn't go to any of these countries or it would screw up the rest of my travel plans. Senegal, Morocco - visa on arrival but more than it would cost me to get to London and somehow (given the proximity to where I was) more time. In the end I figured I had two options - Addis (I applied for a new visa for Ethiopia) and London. I called the Gabonese embassy in London and they told me the evisa system wasn’t working but they could issue me with a visa the same day if I brought my passport in before 11am. I booked a flight to London via Addis and Madrid (not the best but the cheapest I could find). I returned to N’Djamena airport and this time I was allowed to check in - I was going home after all! I was travelling with Joey my buddy from PNG, but he was further up the plane than me, and we’d agreed to grab a bite in Addis before he went to China to meet his wife and I flew home to the Gabon embassy, change my clothes and empty my bag!
Joey messaged me in Addis “are you thru?” “No” I replied, "give me a few minutes". I was sitting on the floor by the window in Addis airport before making a decision between arrivals and transit. My wifi had kicked in and my emails were pinging. I saw “evisa approval” pop up and was just checking that I could enter Ethiopia to go to the Gabon embassy there before realising it was my Gabon evisa that I had received, not Ethiopia.
I was in shock, I screenshot it and sent it to Remy (my Gabon guide) who immediately replied “get on a plane”. Easier said than done - when was the next flight. I did a quick Skyscanner search and there was a direct flight the next day. I would arrive 12 hours late but could still salvage the trip I'd booked. Joey was messaging me to hurry me up! I wrote back that I was booking a flight and needed to check in before I came thru. I typed in my details and tried to pay. “Declined”. Ethiopia is one of the only countries where your phone won’t be able to get network. Was this a fraud check on my credit card? I tried again with my debit card - again “declined”. Do I ring my dad? He’ll be thrilled about this one!!!!
I went back on to try with my credit card but as I was holding two phones, one slipped out of my hand and landed on my lap. I picked it up and it had gone to the barclaycard security check. I logged in and typed in my password. Back to the booking and I pressed “approved”. My flight was somehow confirmed. No idea why it was declining the transactions but the first hurdle was passed. I had a flight. Now to see if I could check in without having to enter Ethiopia and going to the check in desk to show the visa - the problem I’d had earlier today. Success - clearly Ethiopian Airways didn’t give a shit. I checked in and went thru transit. Joey was starving and we went straight to get food.
We said goodbye - both on very different journeys. Me to complete my 193 and him on his last trip with his wife before they settled down and started a family. Both exciting, both very different!
I arrived in Gabon and Remy was there to meet me. After weeks of communication we felt like we knew each other already! He gave me a big hug and we rushed to the embassy of the Republic of Congo. If we were going to salvage the day, we had to get my ROC visa in the next 90 mins! But hey, TIA (This is Africa), there is always someone willing to help for a little extra. Two hours later we were heading to the hotel, visa in passport and with everything achieved for the day (despite yesterdays setbacks!). Time for dinner, a beer and sunset. One of the things I love most about Africa was the rich sunsets that never fail to disappoint. Libreville was a capital city on the coast and the shabby Tropicana Hotel had a great view of the deep yellows showing the end of another day.
The next morning, we were heading to the National Park. Remy was an experienced ranger and great tour guide. Despite being Gabonese he was the least African, African tour guide I’d had! He was on time, he was prepared and he’d thought of everything. I had to check he was actually African!!!
We drove to the port, boarded a boat that took us out to sea, before heading into the river delta and then a jeep picked us up for the drive to the camp. We were going to Nyunie. This was owned by Bertie, a French chap, who’d been in Gabon over 30 years and had managed to get sponsorship by J.P.Chenet. That meant there was going to be plenty wine!
After the boat ride, we drove for around an hour to get to the camp. The roads were fairly flooded from the rain, but we crossed the equator line (sadly no sign) and saw the termite nests, which looked like they should have Smurfs living below them!!
There were a few other guests there at the same time. An older gent, called Peter, from Belgium who had retired to Gambia and was now travelling the world and a couple, with their kids and grandmother. The grandmother was Spanish, had married a French guy and they had lived in Gabon for over 40 years. The son was a pilot for Emirates, who had met his wife (a Spanish lady) in Libreville and they had two girls. They all spoke English, French and Spanish and now lived in Dubai! The wine followed and the conversation was fun - that was just the first lunch!
The first game drive, we went out, and saw nothing at first. The landscape was very different to other game drives I’d done. This national park was predominantly forest, with areas of savannah. I was getting a little worried! But then suddenly, a heard of elephants. These were forest elephants - smaller than African elephants and a lot more skittish. Straight away, they ran into the forest.
Next we saw buffalo - the same thing. Wow, these animals were very nervous. I’d never seen herds if buffalo’s or elephants running anywhere! Normally, it’s cars reversing to get out of their way. But the noise of the energy promoted the instinctive running for cover in the forest.
We stopped at a view point for a look out over the landscape. It was littered with small bumps in the land - I guess the valley had been worn away by water, and then suddenly a low flying plane flew straight in front of us, it scared me, until I realised who it was - when the mum and kids were waving frantically at the dad, flying low in a small plane to say hello! It was super cool!
We slowly made our way back to camp as the sun was setting stopping many times to see monkeys, elephants and buffalo! What a magical time and how peaceful!
The wine was flowing at dinner and the fish soup with croutons and cheese was to die for! Off to bed before the 6am game walk.
I awoke to Remy banging on the door. “Hayley, get up, there’s an elephant in the camp”. I slowly opened my slightly hungover eyes. It was not time to get up yet, but I really wanted to see the elephant! I dragged myself out of bed in my shorts and vest too and walked about 5 steps from my little cabin. There was indeed an elephant in the camp! How exciting. I got ready and we heading out into the forest. It was dark, but the sun was rising and we were hoping to see hippos and elephants. Remy chastised me for walking loudly and showed me how to walk, saying I should be quiet so the animals didn’t hear us. As he said this, the machete he was carrying came down hard on the tree branch. In my head, I laughed! Well all the animals would have heard that!!
We walked thru the first forest, over rivers (Remy thru, and me on whatever log I could find to stumble across) and eventually as we left the first to enter the savannah, there was an elephant. We crept quietly (now I was glad I’d learnt to walk again!) and got pretty close before it got skittish and disappeared into the forest. I always find it so incredible to see safari animals in the wild. They are so magical. We saw another few elephants before it was time to head back and we decided to walk along the beach to see if we could spot hippos.
The beach was a stretch of golden sand and seemed to carry on for miles. You could see where the tidal line was, as it was eroding the sand each time it came in, but also left a bit of a sandy walkway where several times the sand gave way below my feet and I was sliding down the bank. This was what we were looking for with the hippos. There’s tracks leading to the top of the bank, and then the hole where the sand had given way and the hippo had landed on the beach. Then the tracks heading to the water. We saw these tracks many, many times over the three days, but sadly not hippo in the surf! They must have been playing with us, as there were clearly a lot around!
We finally made it back to camp for breakfast and decided that we’d walk to the lagoon and see if there were hippos there, then go for a swim in the sea!
We sat on a log near the lagoon and waited and waited and waited but still no hippos! We swam in the cool water which was refreshing as the sun was now getting really warm and the strap marks from my tops and bikini were becoming more and more pronounced, despite the huge quantities of sun cream I was using!
Lunch was again copious amount of wine and delicious food and I succumbed to an afternoon nap to let the heat of the day pass before it was time for another game drive. This time we went in a different direction! We quickly saw herds of buffalo’s, elephants and monkeys and decided to try and find the elusive hippos! Twice we went to the lagoon and twice we found they were still elusive, but you can’t blame us for trying!
We jumped out as the sun was going down and decided to walk back to camp via the beach in the hope of finally finding a hippo. Unfortunately, we didn’t plan on it being high tide and we got to a point, quite close to camp and the way was blocked! We crossed the river (which was now not as cold as the sea water was mixing with the fresh water - Remy gave me a piggy back) and made it to a huge fallen tree, where he then said we had to climb up the bank! Ha! It was 10 metres high and I was in flip flops! This was not going to be fun (or easy). Remy scrambled up with the phones and water and then came back to drag me up the vertical drip! Again I was thinking “poor guy, having to deal with this!”
He dragged me most of the way up before making me jump to get the last bit (almost like trying to get out of the swimming pool). I was stuck, not quite there but not far off. He climbed up himself and pulled me up from the top! We’d made it, although by now it was dark! I’m my head I had Tommys (Chad tour guide) voice “no flip flops after sunset!” D’oh! Better be extra careful to spot the scorpions then! Dinner was more fabulous French food before a nice long sleep and my last day in the national park!
The next morning was all about hippos! We walked and walked and walked - around 12 kms to try and find these giant creatures but they were determined to elude us!
I walked in the surf thinking of how different my life was from a year ago! No more toxic boyfriend, no more exhausting job that repeatedly denied me leave despite performing multiple roles. This did effectively mean I was jobless and homeless, but I felt content. Like trying to finish my travel goal was exactly what I should be doing right now. The 20+ years of travel had been amazing, using every single days public holiday, annual leave, career breaks, time between jobs to explore the world before my eye sight deteriorated further had been so incredible. The things I’ve seen, done, experienced, learnt, the people I’ve met, travelled with, worked with, shared food with, crossed paths with, all having a part in how I got to where I was now. Having the privilege, the determination, the strength, and the ability to travel as much as I have, has been a gift. And I cherish currently having the freedom to finish my dream (fingers crossed! - it’s not done yet!!)
Back to the beach! It was time to say goodbye to Bertie - amazing stay and my wait line had definitely expanding!! We only had the drive back to the boat to see our final animals and indeed the elephants and buffalo did not disappoint! Eating along the savannah and forest line. Safety always in mind. They’re lives based purely on day to day survival and focused around food.
The boat ride back was smooth and we arrived in time to go for dinner in a nice local restaurant, where although I’d eaten more than my body weight in French food, the last few days, I was still able to try a couple of dishes!
The next day it was raining heavily and there was only the city tour left to do! I only got in trouble once for taking a photo of the presidents office (by accident as I though it was.a different building!). I wonder what would happen if Buckingham Palace said, no photos of the outside?!
My time in Gabon was amazing and I am really looking forward to going back and seeing much more of the country!
Off to the airport and on to Republic of Congo (Brazzaville). I checked in and then was pulled aside by the head of the airport. "Miss", he said, "you know we are under military control?". "yes" I responded. "I just wanted to check you don't have any weapons on you - you'll need to remove them from your bag before you go through security!" I laughed. "I don't have any weapons" I said and walked toward security. Can’t wait for the next adventure.
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