I got to the airport in Douala and was not allowed through to check in. Apparently the check in staff weren't there yet. I waited around 90 mins, and then an hour before my flight I was getting anxious I was going to miss it. There was no-one else in the airport. Had I made a mistake?! Where were the other passengers. I went again to ask to go through to check in. Again I was told no, then suddenly a guy calls to me "Miss Kennedy?" "Yes" I replied. "Come this way."
I was escorted to check in, escorted to security, immigration and then to the gate. Had I done something wrong?? I asked my security detail "where is everyone else?".
"you're the only one boarding the flight!" Ahhhh, now I understood. This was a bit surreal, but hey, as long as the flight was leaving and I wasn't;t being detained, I was on my way to my next country!
The only thing I knew about CAR was there were lots of elephants and the Russian military group Wagner trained there. That was it. Time to learn a little more and explore another new country. I wasn’t going to the National Park this time as along with Cameroon, I also had this booked for next year. Therefore of the two things I knew, I wouldn't see any elephants, except for on the beer bottle... but I definitely saw the military
Bangui (pronounced Bangi) was a small city with a lot of people in it. But thru my guide, I did learn a lot more about African culture.
There was a huge military presence here, both national forces, UN and Wagner group. They were everywhere. This is really not good for a blind person as it’s difficult to see people designed to camouflage, when you’re just trying to take a tourist photo. Several times my guide said “no photos” as I lifted my phone to take a picture. The roads were poor, yet crowded and I started to understand. Everything was bought and sold on the side of the road. Bread, wood, charcoal, vegetables, data, everything. You didn’t even have to get out of your car. The moment you pulled over, they were running up to the car - usually the one that knew what you wanted to buy, being there first. It seemed you had a “regular” road side stop where you bought your groceries etc from.
We drove out of Bangui picking up bread on the way. And we drove on surprisingly good road, North for around 2 hours. We then arrived at the Boali falls. There were constantly military around so it was tricky to get photos. We ordered lunch and then went to explore. The falls were stunning, it was rainy season so the water was at its highest and the falls stretched quite a way, seemingly angled on a 45 degrees point so you could never quite get all of the falls into one picture! It was set up for tourists however it took me a while to understand that other than the odd country counter passing thru, the tourists were the UN staff. Apparently, this place was a weekend hangout for them.
There were several viewing platforms and photo tours hanging out to take your photo, with your phone for a tip. I wondered why I’d hired a guide if he wasn’t going to take pictures, however on seeing his photography skills, it was indeed better to tip someone a few dollars to get some photos.
The falls are 50m high and 250m in width and from different viewing spots you could get various angles of these mighty falls - but I couldn't see the bottom, or get down to go for a swim!! From some reading, there are two power stations located at the base of the falls, Boali I and Boali II and they generate a combined output of 18,65 MW and are run by the state owned electric company ENERCA. This was quite spectacular and far better than the near five hour drive in torrential rain in ROC to see the much smaller non touristy falls where every time I took a step in any direction someone grabbed me to stop me falling down the falls (despite being around 5 metres away (at the closest) from the edge).
After spending quite a while wandering around the various platforms and getting soaked by the spray at the lowest point we could reach (after that the steps were out and you couldn’t go any further) we went up to get some lunch.
It had probably been about 45 mins since we’d ordered so ordering fish and chips in a western world you’d expect it to be ready, but hey?! TIA (This Is Africa!) they probably hadn’t passed the order to the kitchen yet! 😂😂😂😂. 45 mins later our fish and chips arrived! It was fabulously tasty but I’d already finished my oversized beer and I wasn’t going to have another! Time for some water! On the drive back I experienced what it was like to be a rich person in CAR. We stopped several times to buy charcoal and wood - the car boot filled to the brim. Apparently things are cheaper outside Bangui and one must make the most of it! The scenery was so different to what I expected to CAR to be like as it was so lush and green.
The next day, we travelled to the Pygmy village that was around two hours south west of Bangui. I had never seen Pygmy people before and I was quite excited! They did not disappoint. I arrived and could already hear the drums and singing (this was a relief as I hate it when everything is out only for visits!).
I have never felt tall in my life so this was definitely an amazing moment for me that I will probably never experience again. There are many theories on why pygmy's are pygmy's that range from faulty genes IGF1 and GHR, a side effect of an evolutionary push to start having children earlier - in many African nations and significantly less access to ultraviolet light from living below the shaded canopy in rainforest/jungle type environments. I am no expert, so I will leave the explanation there.
I was shown how to dance, they have moves to different rhythms and take it in turns to dance in pairs, I was shown (but didn’t try) to climb a tree and also what some of the tree barks were used for different medications. The Bado tree bark was used for stomach ache and worms. The Zoko tree was for blood problems and if I heard correctly (I did ask twice!) the Popei tree bark is for swollen penis problems!
After this we returned to the music having had my photo taken with a few of the very sweet Pygmy ladies and it was almost time to head back.
I’d had an amazing few hours with these lovely people and was starting to think that CAR wasn’t was bad as I’d heard it was.
The way back was another shopping trip for my guide. This time, more wood and charcoal, blue dyker (small deers) - I have no idea if I spelt that correctly, and as much manioche was he could fit in the boot. This guy was on a spending spree - I was clearly paying him far too much!
A few quick stops in the city - the Russian statue, the notre dame cathedral and the main square and we were finished for the day!
I went for a late lunch and was given directions to walk back to the hotel where I chilled for a bit before heading down to the bar to take photos of sunset. I’d seen on google maps earlier when I was checking my route back, that the hotel had a second restaurant on a little island that was connected by an arial path. I decided to go and check it out. The sky was looking beautiful but there were trees in the way. I found an opening, wondered down a few stairs and looked at the broken boats and jetty. Clearly no one was using this. I turned to take a selfie of the sunset and before I knew it the military were on me, my phone being snatched out my hand. WTF?! Two military women had pounced on my screaming g at me in French that I didn’t understand, dragging me to my feet and screaming “gendarmerie” I knew this was “police” but I didn’t have a clue what I’d done wrong especially as I was just wandering round the hotel restaurant.
Turns out it was all for money and the hotel bar staff seemed to be in on it too. In the end I had to pay the equivalent of USD50 for my phone back and thank them for not going to the police. I had enough local cash for a beer left. That was it. If anything else went wrong, I really was now, totally screwed
I smiled gratefully, in my head shouting obscenities at them and went for a beer at the hotel bar next to the swimming pool safe, close to the door and elevator that went to my room. Not that I think the hotel room door would have stopped the army militia barging through but I had to take comfort somewhere. My heart was beating so fast, I needed to calm myself. Some guys from the UN, saw I was not quite on and came and joined me for a beer then dinner. It turned out to be quite a nice evening. I’m not sure my guide was so thrilled the next day when his top was greatly reduced purely due to the fact I literally had no cash left on me due to the military shenanigans the prior evening.
I was meeting Jacqui and Gunnar the next morning when they arrived in Bangui and then I was looking forward to getting the hell out of this country! I doubt anything will have changed in 20 years, but one can always hope!
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